Advantages ofFRPboats
1.Due to lightness and strength. This made it possible to significantly reduce the weight of the structure. It is therefore suitable for high performance boats and light racing boats.
2. Resistant to corrosion to marine life. It is more suitable for use in the marine environment than traditional shipbuilding materials
3. It has very good electronic and microwave properties, which are suitable for warships
4. It can absorb a lot of energy and has good muscles. The ship is not easy to be damaged by collision and normal movement
5. Low thermal conductivity and good thermal insulation.
6. Smooth surface of the hull like glass, available in many colors, suitable for ships with uncomplicated structures. There are various styles, beautiful,
7.Good models. According to the different requirements of different parts of the ship's structure, the best design can be achieved through material selection. model education and a good selection of the structure
8.Fusion can make the whole hull without seams or gaps
9.The hull is easy to build and requires less labor than the steel or wooden hull
10.Easy to maintain They have lower maintenance costs than ships in steel, aluminum and wood and offer good economic performance throughout their entire life cycle.
Production requirements for FRP boats
FRP boat building requires a temperature of 15-30° C. Humidity should be between 40% and 60%, not more than 65%. Consider wind, dust accumulation and direct sunlight.
The production process of FRP boats
1. General outline making wood type→wood type processing→mold manufacturing→mold processing→release agent→gel coat→resin (putty)→felt/cloth/composite felt (multilayer board/balsa wood)→curing→installing skeleton (reinforcement)→ Demoulding → trimming and assembly
2. Process
2.1 Type of wood
2.1.1 Making the hull
2.1.1.1 Upper deck
2.1.1.1 Deck Depending on the type of ship and the main parameters (Loa, B, D), channel steel is used in the construction of the deck and two vertical channel steel. at both ends of the channel, the steel is uniformly extended from the outside, increasing the middle of the beams or beams, according to the size of the hull (weight). Fix the wooden square on the dock, and use a level gauge to make the steel frame in a reference plane with an electric plane (hand plane)1.1.1.1, note the outer channel against the steel channel 1.1 Lead the reference line
1. Mold making
(1) method:
① Lofting according to the rib position → set the center line, make and assemble the sample (leave a certain height at the bottom when assembling, which is convenient for exhaust) → lay wooden boards in the hollow → apply putty (gypsum or other putty, and use The shoulder ruler is smooth → sanded with water sandpaper → spray paint (or gel coat, generally spray paint is enough, gel coat is more expensive than paint) → release agent → mold gel coat (more expensive than product gel coat) → mold resin (small deformation, shrinkage rate) Low) → felt/cloth/composite felt → curing → support plate installation → demoulding → trimming
②Use the boat/component made by others as a mold a. Printed glass processing mold can be used to make anti-skid plate; b. Through film → felt/ Cloth→film (do not produce bubbles)→modeling→removing the film to make asbestos tiles.
(2) Note:
①The color of the mold gel coat should be different from the color of the product gel coat, so it is easy to observe the uniformity when spraying the product gel coat;
②Mold There must be a certain slope (1.5mm/m is enough) to facilitate mold removal;
③ For components with many smooth surfaces and small parts, smooth plywood (need to be lined with wood to keep it from deforming) can be used instead of putty (surrounding corners or joints) Putty still needs to be scraped and smoothed), and then waxing (generally no need to spray paint, but if the precision needs to be put on the place, paint still needs to be painted);
④The supporting board should be cross-assembled and fixed with felt/cloth/composite felt. At the same time with The parts that fix the hull and support the ground should be strengthened accordingly;
⑤ Polishing paste should be applied after molding to make the mold quality better.
2. Release agent
(1) Type:
① one-time wax is floor wax (large amount) + one-time release agent is suitable for new molds, wax more times and use less release agent. After demoulding, there is a layer of protective mold on the outer surface of the hull; Finally, wax again (a small amount) + release agent once;
② Wax once (large amount) + release agent multiple times are suitable for mass production of old molds, and the gel coat can be sprayed again with a clean rag after each release. Do not get wet, otherwise multiple release agents will be wasted and must be re-waxed;
③One-time wax (large amount) + multiple waxes are suitable for mass production of old molds, and spray glue again after each demolding with a clean rag Clothes. If it gets wet, wipe it dry with a rag and then wax it twice and more times, and you don't need to wax it once. In fact, the film can be removed by only waxing multiple times, but the price is more expensive than one wax.
(2) Comparison:
① demoulding is the safest;
② is more convenient than
③ to demould, but the price is more expensive;
② and ③ do not protect the mold, which will damage the mold, and the mold needs to be repaired regularly.
(3) Note:
①The wax and the release agent are not compatible for many times, so they cannot be used at the same time;
②Use the roundabout method to wax, wait for 5-10 minutes (to saturate the mold), wipe it with a rag until the mirror effect is achieved, and then lay it down again ;
③ Generally, the more waxing, the better the demoulding, which should be determined according to the specific situation;
④ One-time wax is used for the bottom, it is cheap, the more the better the demoulding.
3. Gel coat
(1) Placement: gel coat + curing agent (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, also known as "white formula", the curing agent forms 1-4% by weight of the gel coat)
(2) Operation:
①Spray the mold with a large structure with a spray gun, and use a brush for small molds. When spraying with a spray gun, the gel coat and curing agent are mixed externally, and the machine automatically adjusts;
②The colored part outside the hull is blocked by color separation paper first, and then the main color part is sprayed, and then the color separation paper is removed to block the main color part, and then the color is sprayed .
(3) Note: The gel coat should not be too thin, it should be between 0.4-0.6mm.
4. Resin
(1) Composition: resin (unsaturated poly) + accelerator (called "red formula") + white formula (accelerator and hardener are usually 1-4% by weight of resin)
(2) Function: saturated cement.
(3) Please note:
① Some resins have accelerators (eg 2597PT), so there is no need to add accelerators.
② The role of the accelerator is to promote the curing effect, and the role of the curing agent is to cure the resin. Only the curing agent has no accelerator, and the resin curing time is slow. Only accelerator, no curing agent resin does not cure. Therefore, the two are indispensable, and they should be deployed in a certain proportion according to the situation. If the curing amount is too large, it may cause combustion. Some chemicals can also increase the curing speed (such as ammonia water, a small amount can be added for construction needs such as upward operation or improving efficiency), but it may deteriorate the resin, so pay attention to the amount and method of use. The surface of some resins is sticky after curing, mainly because the quality of the resin is not good;
③The higher the temperature, the more obvious the curing effect of the curing agent. Therefore, when it is hot, you can put less curing agent than usual. Of course, it can also be used to accelerate the curing effect to meet the construction needs;
④The lower the temperature, the more viscous the resin, and the dosage is not easy to control during construction, so pay attention to the indoor temperature; After the catalyst, add a small amount of talcum powder (if the economy allows adding white carbon black, that is, silicon powder) to increase the viscosity;
⑥The curing agent should be put at the end before construction to prevent the resin from curing in advance;
⑦The resin is expensive and should be used sparingly.
Resin putty
(1) Blending: resin + red formula + talcum powder + white formula
(2) Function: ① Filling the corners or gaps with putty can play a transitional role. Note that after applying the resin putty, use a brush dipped in resin to wipe it It is evenly applied; ②It can fix multi-layer boards and cork in complex structures; ③It can be used as a material for repairing ships.
(3) Disadvantage: It becomes brittle after curing and cannot be used to stick smooth surfaces.
(4) White carbon black (silicon powder) can also be used to make putty (with gel coat or resin), the quality is better and smoother (it can be used to repair boats).
5. Felt/cloth/composite felt
(1) Differences:
①There are various types of felt/cloth/composite felt, and the degree of laying is from easy to difficult; Layer felt, and then spread other felts, cloth, etc.; ③Needle composite felt is equivalent to the combination of cloth and felt, one side is felt, the other side is cloth (such as 1050); ④ Spraying yarn can replace composite felt, but when spraying by machine It contains a lot of resin and is easy to waste; ⑤m stands for surface felt, M stands for felt, R stands for cloth, and B stands for balsa wood.
(2) Operation:
①Use resin putty for transition in places that are not easy to lay; ②The complex parts of the mold structure can be replaced by cloth and felt to reduce the difficulty of laying (such as the head of the upper body); ③Use scissors to cut the felt on this side /Cloth/composite felt is cut to facilitate laying; ④ Position the felt/cloth/composite felt before brushing with resin; Bubbles appear. If the air bubbles have been solidified, use a blade to cut them off and fill them up; ⑥Each layer of felt/cloth/composite felt should penetrate the resin, and you should decide how many layers of felt (cloth/composite felt) to brush at a time according to the situation. Generally, the thickness exceeds 5mm The workpiece lamination should be carried out in two steps. For example, 2 layers of 300 felt can be laid at the same time and then brushed with resin. One layer of 300 felt and one layer of 1050 composite felt can also be used; The felt faces outward, and it is better to put the felt face inward when laying multi-layer composite felt (beautiful); sometimes, an angle grinder can be used to grind the cured felt, which is conducive to the convenience of the next layering.
6. Multi-layer board/cork
(1) Function: Increase the thickness of the hull to meet the requirements for improving strength.
(2) Multi-layer board construction method: ①Before construction, the multi-layer board should be opened (breathable) and coated with resin to dry (saturation treatment); The thick side of the laminate faces inwards; ③After placing the board, fix it with a hammer, fill the hole with sealant and fill the passage around the board; ④ After hardening, use a grinding wheel to polish the board and its surroundings.
(3) Cork construction method: ①Fill corners and gaps with putty before construction; ②The balsa wood is covered with resin-coated felt, and the concave and convex places are filled with putty in advance (such as the stern of the hull). (4) Note: ① Weight-bearing surfaces and open windows/holes/doors, corners, etc. should be reinforced with multi-layer boards; ② The back seal plate should be installed before the balsa wood.
7. Curing sign: The next process can be carried out after the resin is cured to the extent that it can be passed on.
8. Skeleton (reinforcement)
(1) Type: Multilayer board or foam
(2) Comparison: Foam is easier to shape than wooden skeleton (2) Multilayer board skeleton: ① Install the skeleton first by positioning the skeleton with a locator; ② Wooden Make skeleton cross-combination (the long skeleton can be in the form of overlapping, if the skeleton is curved, you can stagger the grooves on both sides of the edge of the board to facilitate bending), and fix it with felt/cloth/composite felt.
(3) Foam tendons: ① Draw the center line on the hull, and then determine the edge line; ② The foam tendons are fixed with a plastic glue stick heated to a liquid state, the ends are thinned, and the corners are smoothed and then brushed with resin (saturation effect) , after a certain period of time, wrap felt/cloth/composite felt; ③The foam tendons only play a role in shaping, and can be broken if necessary; ④Sometimes the outer surface of the tendons seems to have marks; ⑤The foam can be made of A and B foaming agent weight 1: 1 combination. Agent A is yellow, agent B is brown and has a high specific gravity. When making it, lay newspapers in the mold first, then quickly pour the mixed A and B agents, cover with a perforated cover (ventilate to avoid the cover from bulging), wait for a while to form.
9. Demolding
(1) Air hole: The position of the air hole should be selected in the opening part of the hull and made into a trumpet shape.
(2) Method: The gas injection method is more commonly used. If it is not easy to demould, the water injection method can be used.
10. Trim and assemble
11. Yacht molding
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Post time: Dec-28-2022
